Monthly Archives: March 2013

President “Pepe” Mujica – Uruguay

Recently, we traveled to Uruguay to make a new great friend, Leslie Gething (sister to Baltimore’s Elizabeth). While staying at her beautiful home outside the town of Colonia and enjoying her hospitality, we discussed Uruguay politics and learned about ‘Pepe’ Mujica, the president of the country (we love learning about each country’s political climate and always find taxi drivers to be full of opinion and passion). Pepe, frankly, is an interesting individual regardless of anyone’s political or economic beliefs. His life story of being a guerrilla fighter who was captured and lived in a hole for 14 years before being granted amnesty and then rising through democratic politics to his current position is unique.

Here is a link to a recent NY Times Article about him:

http://www.nytimes.com/2013/01/05/world/americas/after-years-in-solitary-an-austere-life-as-uruguays-president.html

Here is a video of a speech he made at Rio 20 and below this a text translation:

President Mujica – Rio 20

To all of the authorities present here, from every latitude and organization, thank you very much. I want to thank the people of Brazil and Mrs. President, Dilma Rousseff. Thank you all for the good faith undoubtedly expressed by all of the speakers that preceded me.

We hereby express our innermost will as rulers, to adhere to all the agreements our wretched humanity, may chance to subscribe.

Notwithstanding, let us take this opportunity to ask some questions out loud. All afternoon long, we have been talking about sustainable development, about rescuing the masses from the claws of poverty.

What is it that flutters within our minds? Is it the model of development and consumption, which is shaped after that of affluent societies? I ask this question: what would happen to this planet if the people of India had the same number of cars per family as the Germans? How much oxygen would there be left for us to breathe? More clearly: Does the world today have the material elements to enable 7 or 8 billion people to enjoy the same level of consumption and squandering as the most affluent Western societies? WIll that ever be possible? Or will we have to start a different type of discussion one day? Because we have created this civilization in which we live: the progeny of the market, of the competition, which has begotten prodigious and explosive material progress. But the market economy has created market societies. And it has given us this globalization, which means being aware of the whole planet.

Are we ruling over globalization or is globalization ruling over us? Is it possible to speak of solidarity and of “being all together” in an economy based on ruthless competition? How far does our fraternity go?

I am not saying any of to undermine the importance of this event. On the contrary, the challenge ahead of us is of a colossal magnitude and the great crisis is not an ecological crisis, but rather a political one.

Today, man does not govern the forces he has unleashed, but rather, it is these forces that govern man; and life. Because we do not come into this planet simply to develop, just like that, indiscriminately. We come into this planet to be happy. Because life is short and it slips away from us. And no material belonging is worth as much as life, and this is fundamental.But if life is going to slip through my fingers, working and over-working in order to be able to consume more, and the consumer society is the engine-because ultimately, if consumption is paralyzed, the economy stops, and if you stop economy, the ghost of stagnation appears for each one of us, but it is this hyper-consumption that is harming the planet. And this hyper-consumption needs to be generated, making things that have a short useful life, in order to sell a lot. Thus, a light bulb cannot last longer than 1000 hours. But there are light bulbs that last 100,000 hours! But these cannot be manufactured, because the problem is the market, because we have to work and we have to sustain a civilization of “use and discard”, and so, we are trapped in a vicious cycle. These are problems of a political nature, which are showing us that it’s time to start fighting for a different culture.

I’m not talking about returning to the days of the caveman, or erecting a “monument to backwardness.” But we cannot continue like this, indefinitely, being ruled by the market, on the contrary, we have to rule over the market.

This is why I say, in my humble way of thinking, that the problem we are facing is political. The old thinkers. Epicurus, Seneca and even the Aymara put it this way, a poor person is not someone who has little but one who needs infinitely more, and more and more.” This is a cultural issue.

So I salute the efforts and agreements being made. And I will adhere to them, as a ruler. I know some things I’m saying are not easy to digest. But we must realize that the water crisis and the aggression to the environment is not the cause. The cause is the model of civilization that we have created. And the thing we have to re-examine is our way of life.

I belong to a small country well endowed with natural resources for life. In my country, there are a bit more than 3 million people. But there are about 13 million cows, some of the best in the world. And about 8 or 10 million excellent sheep. My country is an exporter of food, dairy, meat. It is a low-relief plain and almost 90% of the land is fertile.

My fellow workers, fought hard for the 8 hour workday. And now they are making that 6 hours. But the person who works 6 hours, gets two jobs, therefore, he works longer than before. But why? Because he needs to make monthly payments for: the motorcycle, the car, more and more payments, and when he’s done with that, he realizes he is a rheumatic old man, like me, and his life is already over.

And one asks this question: is this the fate of human life? These things I say are very basic: development cannot go against happiness. It has to work in favor of human happiness, of love on Earth, human relationships, caring for children, having friends, having our basic needs covered. Precisely because this is the most precious treasure we have; happiness. When we fight for the environment, we must remember that the essential element of the environment is called human happiness.

Harry

Playing with a Leopard Seal…..

Cutting through the water in our small, 2-person Kayak, we are suddenly forced to stop. A gargantuan, annoyed leopard seal pops it’s large head out of the water and draws in a sharp–but quite raspy–breath. His reptile-like head glances over at us, and, without missing a beat, slides silently back under the sea, leaving behind nothing but a small plop! as the water fills his spot.

Slowly, ever so slowly, we begin to paddle towards the small opening in the rocks that mark the beginning of our exit from the beautiful Iceberg Graveyard. No one was really nervous about the leopard seal: we’d played with one earlier during our excursion, and no harm had come to anyone. He’d simply rocketed around the group with indescribable ease, turning sometimes 180 degrees on a dime…and then bullet away. A kayaker could only glimpse the leopard seal up close for a few seconds at a time: It would corkscrew professionally underneath their vessel and then zoom out of sight. But, throughout this, there was little fear. The only thing that I thought was a bit unsettling was the lack of power we humans had. This master of the sea (10 ft, 1,200 lbs) could easily tip us without a seconds’ notice, and proceed to do/bite whatever it pleased long before someone could even shout out in alarm.

We continue, slowly, admiring the scenery……when another raspy breath penetrates the silence. But we only have the time to glimpse it’s slick back while he dives under. The Leopard Seal is slowly judging each one of us….and we find it likes to hang out mostly around the smaller/slower members of our contingent. Seeing as I am 13, and my dad and I are stragglers, we fit well into this criteria. The rest of the group begins to fade into the distance while we examine the scenery, take our time, and watch this curious leopard seal circle us. Suddenly a quick, gravelly breath snaps me awake and I look to see him only a couple meters away. He zooms underneath our boat and off into the distance. Then he comes back to linger underneath our boat, bumping up and down against the bottom of it. We rock back and forth lightly and smile as this massive creature continues to thrash about viciously only a matter of inches underneath our powerless bodies.

At this point it is necessary to explain a bit about how a Leopard Seal eats a freshly caught penguin. After catching one, (which probably isn’t too hard as a) they are very smart animals.* b) I have never seen any life-form that large with such explosive speed and untouchable agility.) it will proceed to whack the thing as hard as possible against the water’s surface until, finally, the meat bursts out of it’s skin.

Anyways, we can now feel him biting the bottom of our Kayak, and we are almost completely absorbed in this fantastic interaction while the rest of our team fades away, and we become more and more isolated from the pack–and for those of you who have seen the Water Bufallo video, you know what almost certainly would’ve been the fate of the poor guy who was separated from his pack. My dad nudges me to mention that we should probably be heading back to the group pretty soon, so we begin to paddle again.

But we are distracted.

The guy is doing all sorts of corkscrews around the boat, constantly sizing us (me) up…. and then disappearing. One of these times he leaves for an unusually long time, so we stop to look for him.

Snort!!! His head lurches out of the water, jaws open, a few centimeters from my left arm. A shiver of surprise fizzes through me, and I am paralyzed looking down at him. Before I have time to react, he corkscrews out of sight like a bullet spinning out of a rifle. Gone.

At this point there are two changes: My father and I are both holding our hands much higher out of the water and we have suddenly stopped enjoying this seal to realize that yes, we are far from the group (and, for me, yes I am the smallest one, [he singled us out from the start] and yes, he has been acting this way around us for a reason.).

Our paddling speed has not improved greatly despite our sudden paradigm shift, because our hands are now a combined four sticks in the air with little leveraging power. To add to this, we are constantly sticking our heads over our shoulders to try and locate our pursuant. How far away was he? The answer: not far. But we only knew his general direction from where he was last seen or when we’d last heard him breathe–which he only did occasionally. So we keep going, the tension in our mind still intense as he pops up closer, closer, closer.

We are both looking back at his general direction, and we can feel the tension lessen by about half a degree. But no, we do not stop paddling. However, we are still looking back at the water behind us, so suddenly…..

……we are beached!!!!!!!

We are beached.

A flat rock runs several inches underneath the water almost all the way out to the other rocky area that is the place on the right hand side of our little passageway back to the ship. In front of us, more rock. And behind us is several feet of rock that we slid over while being beached, plus a leopard seal. I curse. We try to push off the rock/paddle off of it using the few inches of water below us. We shake around like heck in our spray skirts. Skirts that prevent easy exit from the kayak; there is no time to pop the skirt and stagger out of the kayak before pushing it off the rock and getting back in, and we shake like never before, as my dad imagines the seal leaping up and taking a chunk out of his shoulder while I don’t think of anything but getting off of the dang rock. I look back and see nothing, no head, no air bubbles, nothing. In a desperate burst of feet-kicking-body-thrusting-head-jerking-arm-flailing-adrenaline, I listen to the sweet sound of a kayak scraping off of a rock into the water. Our kayak. But we don’t even catch a glimpse backwards as we forget the “hands up” rule and paddle, paddle, paddle. Plus more paddling. Finally, I glimpse backwards but not long enough to sight the seal. He could be right beside us. But we keep paddling until we are suddenly in the group again, and then suddenly leading the group. We scan our surroundings and find it satisfyingly Leopard Seal free. I let out a fountain of air and then lean back in the kayak.

There were no more Leopard Seal sightings for the rest of the excursion. We reached a stationed Zodiac, awkwardly clambered out of the kayaks, tied them together and zoomed back to the ship, leaving the Leopard Seal far behind but the memory still fresh in our minds……

*For those of you who have read Endurance, you may recall how one of the smaller crew members would fool the leopard seals into thinking he was a penguin so they could shoot it for the meat. You also may remember the leopard seal who, when the man ran away, followed his shadow from underneath the ice all the way to the other side of the floe to greet him with almost a fatal surprise.

Leland

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Antarctica and South Georgia by Russian research vessel

Kayakers Antarctica

As one prone to hyperbole or at least liberal use of superlatives, I am probably the last person who should be blogging on our voyage to Antarctica and South Georgia. In the words of our expedition leader, Graham Charles, a record-breaking explorer on both poles, “Welcome to South Georgia-the greatest place on the face of the earth- bar none!”

Imagine standing in a penguin rookery with over 250,000 king penguins,

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or kayaking among 30 plus curious fur seals,

or being hunted by a hungry leopard seal,

Leopard Seal

or doing a REAL polar plunge,

We have no pictures because we ALL plunged.

or slaloming through a massive iceberg graveyard with structures as high as office buildings.

Iceberg Graveyard

Iceberg Graveyard

Antarctica did not have the wildlife that South Georgia did but it’s landscapes were show-stoppingly phenomenal. It was otherworldly, in a good way.

I am NOT bragging about what WE saw or had the chance to encounter: I am bragging that these wonders exist on our planet.

Carter